Here is our Picasa web album of our Puebla ...
https://picasaweb.google.com/115771192758513101844/CraigAndAmyAtDayOfTheDead?authkey=Gv1sRgCL_6y9KDnuaeUg
Thursday, November 8, 2012
Sunday, November 4, 2012
Remembering loved ones
One very touching feature of day of the dead is that all over Mexico people go to cemeteries to clean and decorate their graves. We've seen it in many states, even where the tradition of offrendas or of staying at the graveside all night long no longer continues. Below we'll publish a few photos, of this and the lovely decorations that result.
The Amazing Voladores de Papantla
We have been so hopeful this trip to experience the Voladores de Papantla. There is a tradition in the huastec tribes near and above Veracruz that was a religious ceremony and was something that the catholic church could not prevent so they incorporated it. In this ceremony four brave men ascend a very straight very tall pine, 30 meters (100 feet) where they balance on a yard wide square that spins. They arrange ropes in a spiral like a maypole. Then a fifth even braver man climbs up and plays a recorder like flute and prays with the men to the four directions, while standing and dancing! On the top of the pole. Finally he sites on the top of the pole and the four others slowly lean out backwards and fall out on their ropes, heads down, ropes around their slim waists-- how do they ever stay there... With one foot hooked around the rope. Heads down they spiral through the air as if in a trance slowly flying down to earth. Here are some pictures: in our case seen at a county fair, far from the usual solemn presentation!
Saturday, November 3, 2012
Tlaxcala sentimental
It's late. We just spent an hour or two, under the main portal arcade of Tlaxcala's main square, listening to a very romantic and skilled trio playing the kind of poetic yearning songs that to us represent the very best of the Mexican tradition. They played a vihuela for the rhythm, a guitaron for the bass, and the melody on a regular guitar. The three sang with a fourth guy with that gorgeous harmony that gives fullness to the music. Although it was chilly the music was very warming. There were small family groups listening, all of us seated at the cafe's small tables under the stone arches.
Today was a perfect day. Had delicious breakfast in our hotel, the Gran Casona de Cortes, of fruit, chilaquiles, and enchiladas suizas. Went to the market and roamed then hopped on a local bus to go half an hour out in the countryside through the town of Nativitas and then got dropped off in the burbs and walked about seven steep blocks, past a churchyard with its graves outlined in orange marigolds, up to the ruins called Cacaxtlan. This ruin, 1500 years old, has beautiful murals in turquoise, red, white and other colors, remarkably like Bonampak in the Yucatan, so much so they feel sure this place had Mayan influence though soooo far away. We could have seen all three of the big volcanoes from the hilltop site but it was a little hazy. The area is rolling hills with pepper trees, a few pines, cornfields, some Joshua tree like plants and giant nopal cactus. Beautiful. A few rivers.
On the way back met a sweet young Mexican American guy who is assembly of God, here on a personal mission of sorts, teaching in a village while attending the university in Tlaxcala.
Then we combi'd back to town, caught the end of another charreada, caught another performance by the Voladores de Papantla, did some shopping then ate an incredible pork chops in red pipian sauce, so savory, with some Don Julio reposado, then walked the plazas then had a pie called "5 chocolates" that was creamy with a sponge cake soaked in various chocolates and then after some more strolling found this band, "Los princes". Perfectly full day to end this perfectly full varied week. How we love being in Mexico. Sad that it's time to go home but it could not have been a better last day.
Tomorrow we hop on our last bus from Tlaxcala straight to Mexico city's huge TAPO bus station where we'll get a "secure taxi" which you need in Mexico City if you've got luggage, to the Mexico city airport for a last great Italian meal... Then home.
Today was a perfect day. Had delicious breakfast in our hotel, the Gran Casona de Cortes, of fruit, chilaquiles, and enchiladas suizas. Went to the market and roamed then hopped on a local bus to go half an hour out in the countryside through the town of Nativitas and then got dropped off in the burbs and walked about seven steep blocks, past a churchyard with its graves outlined in orange marigolds, up to the ruins called Cacaxtlan. This ruin, 1500 years old, has beautiful murals in turquoise, red, white and other colors, remarkably like Bonampak in the Yucatan, so much so they feel sure this place had Mayan influence though soooo far away. We could have seen all three of the big volcanoes from the hilltop site but it was a little hazy. The area is rolling hills with pepper trees, a few pines, cornfields, some Joshua tree like plants and giant nopal cactus. Beautiful. A few rivers.
On the way back met a sweet young Mexican American guy who is assembly of God, here on a personal mission of sorts, teaching in a village while attending the university in Tlaxcala.
Then we combi'd back to town, caught the end of another charreada, caught another performance by the Voladores de Papantla, did some shopping then ate an incredible pork chops in red pipian sauce, so savory, with some Don Julio reposado, then walked the plazas then had a pie called "5 chocolates" that was creamy with a sponge cake soaked in various chocolates and then after some more strolling found this band, "Los princes". Perfectly full day to end this perfectly full varied week. How we love being in Mexico. Sad that it's time to go home but it could not have been a better last day.
Tomorrow we hop on our last bus from Tlaxcala straight to Mexico city's huge TAPO bus station where we'll get a "secure taxi" which you need in Mexico City if you've got luggage, to the Mexico city airport for a last great Italian meal... Then home.
Thursday, November 1, 2012
Wednesday, October 31, 2012
It's All About the Food
Okay, I'll be honest. A big reason we travel is because usually where we go the food is so damn good. That's especially true here in Mexico. If you've only eaten Mexican food in the US, then you haven't eaten Mexican food. Yes, there are tacos and enchiladas here (I've never seen a burrito in Mexico), but they are a tiny part of the local cuisine. Since we've been in Puebla we've had many meals that you'd be hard pressed to find in even the best Mexican restaurants in the US.
Today was a perfect example. For breakfast we went into the local mercado. There were all sorts of food stands selling all sorts of the regional foods. Cemitas are big here. These are the local version of the Dagwood sandwich. A fluffy roll, cut in half and piled high with Oaxacan stringy cheese, avocado slices, meats, onions, tomatoes and spicy salsa. These are so popular in one stall that the workers there make the cemitas in an assembly line, many at the same time. But I didn't feel like a cemita, so we looked a little further and found a lady who made consume de carrero. This is a fantastic soup made with all sorts of sheep parts. Yes, parts. Better not to ask, just eat. The broth was a beautiful dark red and deliciously spicy and rich. There were many condiments, including chopped onion, cilantro, spicy red salsa, green salsa and limes. Oh man, was this good. Amy had tacos made with sliced pieces of sheep meat. Not quite as good, so we dumped the meat in the soup and shared.
Another great regional dish here is Chiles en Nogada. This is a large chile, stuffed with ground meat, raisins, ground nuts, cinnamon and other goodies. The chile is then dipped in a very fluffy egg white batter and deep fried. It is served with a luscious creamy white sauce and sprinkled with pomegranate seeds. I read about a restaurant here, La Fonda, that was supposed to make a good one. They've been in business for 60 years and when you walk into the place it looks like it must have looked 60 years ago. Lots of old pictures on the walls, beautiful talavera pots everywhere, and a cook who looks like she's been there awhile. The chile en Nogada was made fresh, dipped in the batter and fried and brought to the table piping hot. Oh man, was it good. I've had this dish before many times, but this one was by far the best. Amy had Chipoltes Navidenos, also a large chile deep fried and stuffed with cheese but this time the chile is chipotle meaning the chile has been smoked to a deep brick red with lots of smoky, and only lightly spicy, flavor. Served with fresh limes and a fresh avocado lettuce and tomato salad. This was also really, really good. It's a Christmas season dish.
As I mentioned in a prior post, Puebla is famous for its mole. We've had mole many times and it's been good in the fancy restaurants and in the market stalls. There was a special dark brown mole up in Cuetzalan that was probably the best. An amazing combination of sweet and spicy and oh so rich!
But the simple food can be great. The other morning in Cholula there was nothing open for breakfast. But a local man pointed us down the street where two brother in laws have a little street stall and serve the best tamales I've ever had. One was wrapped in a banana leaf and had cheese and a spicy red sauce.
Mexico has truly one of the greatest cuisines in the world. But it takes a trip here, especially to cities like Puebla and Oaxaca, to realize it.
Today was a perfect example. For breakfast we went into the local mercado. There were all sorts of food stands selling all sorts of the regional foods. Cemitas are big here. These are the local version of the Dagwood sandwich. A fluffy roll, cut in half and piled high with Oaxacan stringy cheese, avocado slices, meats, onions, tomatoes and spicy salsa. These are so popular in one stall that the workers there make the cemitas in an assembly line, many at the same time. But I didn't feel like a cemita, so we looked a little further and found a lady who made consume de carrero. This is a fantastic soup made with all sorts of sheep parts. Yes, parts. Better not to ask, just eat. The broth was a beautiful dark red and deliciously spicy and rich. There were many condiments, including chopped onion, cilantro, spicy red salsa, green salsa and limes. Oh man, was this good. Amy had tacos made with sliced pieces of sheep meat. Not quite as good, so we dumped the meat in the soup and shared.
Another great regional dish here is Chiles en Nogada. This is a large chile, stuffed with ground meat, raisins, ground nuts, cinnamon and other goodies. The chile is then dipped in a very fluffy egg white batter and deep fried. It is served with a luscious creamy white sauce and sprinkled with pomegranate seeds. I read about a restaurant here, La Fonda, that was supposed to make a good one. They've been in business for 60 years and when you walk into the place it looks like it must have looked 60 years ago. Lots of old pictures on the walls, beautiful talavera pots everywhere, and a cook who looks like she's been there awhile. The chile en Nogada was made fresh, dipped in the batter and fried and brought to the table piping hot. Oh man, was it good. I've had this dish before many times, but this one was by far the best. Amy had Chipoltes Navidenos, also a large chile deep fried and stuffed with cheese but this time the chile is chipotle meaning the chile has been smoked to a deep brick red with lots of smoky, and only lightly spicy, flavor. Served with fresh limes and a fresh avocado lettuce and tomato salad. This was also really, really good. It's a Christmas season dish.
As I mentioned in a prior post, Puebla is famous for its mole. We've had mole many times and it's been good in the fancy restaurants and in the market stalls. There was a special dark brown mole up in Cuetzalan that was probably the best. An amazing combination of sweet and spicy and oh so rich!
But the simple food can be great. The other morning in Cholula there was nothing open for breakfast. But a local man pointed us down the street where two brother in laws have a little street stall and serve the best tamales I've ever had. One was wrapped in a banana leaf and had cheese and a spicy red sauce.
Mexico has truly one of the greatest cuisines in the world. But it takes a trip here, especially to cities like Puebla and Oaxaca, to realize it.
Tuesday, October 30, 2012
Into the country and back in time
Yesterday, which was Monday, we came back from the mountain trip to wonderful, tropical Quetzalan, to Puebla, and immediately went by bus to cholula. Well despite others giving Cholula great reviews, we didn't really like it as much as other places... Seemed run down and shabby and empty. And catering to tourists. We did have a really good time walking around town especially in the evening, enjoying mexico's version of Halloween in which tiny children go around in costumes for Four Days having a very great time. They don't collect much, since halloween is new here, but are so excited and innocent. Also we had our first day of the dead markets in which many stalls of sugary figures of skulls, sheep, lambs, ducks, small plates of fake foods and chocolate are sold, along with day of the dead bread which is supposed to look like bones, and my favorite, the delicate paper cuts, with hilarious scenes of the dead having a good time. Also we had an amazingly good street breakfast this morning made by two brothers in law which was tamales with chocolate mole and chicken filling, tamales with cheese and strips of roast poblano chile, and a special tamale of corn meal dough with savory chicken or roast chile flavoring, wrapped in banana leaves and steamed. We also for lunch, yesterday, had a three course meal for three dollars which was a soup with crabmeat in a rich red savory broth followed by pesto or shrimp ceviche followed by fish grilled with either garlic, or a rich tamarind sauce, followed by gelato.
Well today we took a chance on another great field trip out of Puebla, to towns called Atlixco and Huaquechula, and this time we loved it. The countryside southwest of Puebla is so beautiful, green rolling hills with distant volcanos, and fields of golden marigolds, being harvested by the truck and container full, alfalfa, amaranth and sesame seed, and corn. There are small volcanic cones here and there. Many of the fields have small crosses out in them, and the whole place feels unite eerie, towns have very special ways of remembering the dead such as in the tiny village of Huaquechula where they set up 3 story white shrines full of angel figures. Our favorite stop of the day was the utterly charming town of Atlixco, with a central square filled with tropical trees and flowers like what we know of only by its Hawaiian nickname of the shark bite tree, with huge crowns of orange blossom. Atlixco has huge markets filled with women shopping for the fragrant flowers they need to build their altars, because custom says that the spirits of dead loved ones will only visit if the aromas entice them, so people were buying white stock, mock orange, fragrant Asian lilies, rosemary and other fragrant flowers by the huge armful. We took combis several times today and there was barely room for human beings because of the bunches of aromatic flowers.
In Atlixco, we ran into a group of pretty teenage girls, all dressed as Catrinas. Catrin and Catrina are famous cartoon figures well known in Mexico, rich skeletons dressed in costumes from the 1890s gilded age, she wears a long dress with a bustle and a veil and a fetching hat. Her husband is a skeleton who wears top hat and tails. And they have a little skeleton dog, too. A smiling happy skeleton dog.
So here was this cute group of fifteen or sixteen year olds, in whiteface, with long velvet dresses and hats and veils. Adorable. Giving away free samples of sweet bread next to the wrought iron "Italian coffee company" pergola in the main square next to the town's "carpet of flowers, " a block long picture of catrina made entirely of potted flowering plants, next to a government building with a rich 1870s facade and an immense fortress like cathedral from the 1670s. We really did not know what century we were in. It was all old world charm and we just sat and sipped cappuccinos and enjoyed ourselves in this lovely park with its tiled benches, wrought iron fences and cute children in little dracula costumes waving plastic Halloween pumpkin baskets.
Then we went into the Casa de Cultura, where local amateur artists had made about 30 paper mâché Catrinas with fanciful faces. There was even a tyrannosaurus Rex catrina! They all had great hats and dresses to complement the imaginative faces.
Tonight we're back in Puebla which is shiny with rain. But we got to see some great 'altars' which high school
Students made, honoring 1) ancient Mexico 2) John Lennon 3) science fiction writers 4) what's good and bad about Mexico today and 5) Steve jobs. All with photos, flowers, paper cutouts, candles and pictures carefully made with flower petals and seeds. And we got to dance in the street to Cumbia music.
Well today we took a chance on another great field trip out of Puebla, to towns called Atlixco and Huaquechula, and this time we loved it. The countryside southwest of Puebla is so beautiful, green rolling hills with distant volcanos, and fields of golden marigolds, being harvested by the truck and container full, alfalfa, amaranth and sesame seed, and corn. There are small volcanic cones here and there. Many of the fields have small crosses out in them, and the whole place feels unite eerie, towns have very special ways of remembering the dead such as in the tiny village of Huaquechula where they set up 3 story white shrines full of angel figures. Our favorite stop of the day was the utterly charming town of Atlixco, with a central square filled with tropical trees and flowers like what we know of only by its Hawaiian nickname of the shark bite tree, with huge crowns of orange blossom. Atlixco has huge markets filled with women shopping for the fragrant flowers they need to build their altars, because custom says that the spirits of dead loved ones will only visit if the aromas entice them, so people were buying white stock, mock orange, fragrant Asian lilies, rosemary and other fragrant flowers by the huge armful. We took combis several times today and there was barely room for human beings because of the bunches of aromatic flowers.
In Atlixco, we ran into a group of pretty teenage girls, all dressed as Catrinas. Catrin and Catrina are famous cartoon figures well known in Mexico, rich skeletons dressed in costumes from the 1890s gilded age, she wears a long dress with a bustle and a veil and a fetching hat. Her husband is a skeleton who wears top hat and tails. And they have a little skeleton dog, too. A smiling happy skeleton dog.
So here was this cute group of fifteen or sixteen year olds, in whiteface, with long velvet dresses and hats and veils. Adorable. Giving away free samples of sweet bread next to the wrought iron "Italian coffee company" pergola in the main square next to the town's "carpet of flowers, " a block long picture of catrina made entirely of potted flowering plants, next to a government building with a rich 1870s facade and an immense fortress like cathedral from the 1670s. We really did not know what century we were in. It was all old world charm and we just sat and sipped cappuccinos and enjoyed ourselves in this lovely park with its tiled benches, wrought iron fences and cute children in little dracula costumes waving plastic Halloween pumpkin baskets.
Then we went into the Casa de Cultura, where local amateur artists had made about 30 paper mâché Catrinas with fanciful faces. There was even a tyrannosaurus Rex catrina! They all had great hats and dresses to complement the imaginative faces.
Tonight we're back in Puebla which is shiny with rain. But we got to see some great 'altars' which high school
Students made, honoring 1) ancient Mexico 2) John Lennon 3) science fiction writers 4) what's good and bad about Mexico today and 5) Steve jobs. All with photos, flowers, paper cutouts, candles and pictures carefully made with flower petals and seeds. And we got to dance in the street to Cumbia music.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)